How To Choose The Right Stick Electrode

Stick welding is one of the oldest yet most commonly used welding methods today. At the core of Stick/Arc welding are Stick electrodes. These consumable pieces melt to fill the joint and are coated with flux, which forms a slag that protects the weld from contamination.

There are currently dozens of Stick electrodes available on the market. If you are just starting, you might be wondering how to choose the right stick electrode for your welding applications.

Although it may seem overwhelming at first, there's no need to worry. In this discussion, we will cover essential aspects that can help you make an informed choice.

Stick Welding with E7018
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3tHaSNDT1Q&t=172s

What are Stick Electrodes and How to Recognize One?

Stick electrodes, or rods, are metal wires coated with flux used in shielded metal arc welding (SMAW). They serve two purposes: rods carry a current, and they fill the joint as they melt. As a result, stick electrodes are simultaneously electrodes and filler metal in Stick/Arc welding.

A layer of flux covers the base wire. As the electrode melts, the flux forms a protective layer of slag. Slag protects the molten weld bead from contamination and atmospheric gases, meaning you don't need external shielding. Self-shielding gives Stick the ability to weld outdoors, as wind or draft won't blow away the shielding and cause contamination.

Since Stick welding has been around for many years, there are dozens of Stick rods available today. They vary in composition, size, tensile strength, flux coating, current, and more. So many new welders are wondering how to choose the right one.

Some Types of Stick Electrodes

Guide on Choosing the Right Stick Electrode

Each Stick rod has a classification. If you browse the market, you might encounter a series of letters and numbers such as E6010, E7018, E6013, or E6011. These are not random; each part of the classification denotes specific properties.

According to the American Welding Society (AWS) classification, E6010 means:

• E- electrode

• 60 - tensile strength in thousands of pounds /square inch (60,000 psi)

• 1 - welding position (all positions)

• 0 - a type of coating and current (high cellulose sodium, DC+)

How to Recognize Stick Electrodes 

Understanding classification only helps you know what each letter or number means. But it won't make you choose the right one easier. To make the right choice, you should consider the following factors:

• Metal type and electrode type

• Tensile strength

• Welding current

• Base metal thickness

• Welding position

• Electrode size

• Joint design

• Environmental conditions

Let's further explain how each factor affects the electrode choice.

Stick Welding with E7018 Rods
Photo by @eli_ousley (TikTok)

Material Type and Electrode Type

The first step in choosing the right electrode for your welding applications is matching the composition of the electrode with the base metal. If you are welding mild steel, you will need an electrode classified for mild steel; if you're welding stainless steel, you'll need an electrode for stainless steel, and vice versa.

When we talk about electrode composition, we are talking about the core of an electrode. The core must be made, or at least close in composition to the base metal. Fortunately, AWS classified all electrodes based on metal composition to make the choice much easier. Here are some examples:

• Mild steel electrodes: E6010, E6011, E6013, and E7018

• Stainless steel electrodes: E309L, E308L

• Aluminum electrodes: E4043

• Nickel electrodes: ENi-C, ENiCu-7

• Low-alloy steel electrodes: E7010, E8010, E9010

Tips on Identifying the Metal Composition

Matching the composition is crucial in producing strong and uniform welds. But what if you need to repair the piece but are unsure about its composition?

Here are several tips that can help you identify the type of metal:

• Appearance test: Visual inspection is the first step in identifying the type of base metal. For example, non-ferrous metals and stainless steel often have a shiny appearance due to the oxide layer on the surface. Color can tell you a lot about the composition. For example, copper, brass, and bronze are known as red metals. White Metal alloys are generally made up of antimony, tin, cadmium, bismuth, and zinc.

Use appearance to distinguish different base metals.
Source: https://www.mechdaily.com/types-of-metals/

• Internal structure: Look at the internal structure of a broken part or component. If you see the coarse and grainy internal surface, it is a sign of crystalline grains that form during metal casting. Therefore, you are dealing with cast metal, and you need to control the heat.

• Magnetics: Ferrous metals, such as carbon steel or alloy steel, are magnetic. If the base metal is not magnetic, you are likely dealing with non-ferrous metals such as aluminum, brass, copper, titanium, or 300-series stainless steel.

• Chisel test: A chisel can give you an idea about a metal's composition. If it "bites" into the base, you are likely dealing with softer metals, such as mild steel or aluminum. On harder metals, such as cast iron, carbon steel, or chrome-moly, the chisel will bounce off the surface.

• Sparks: When preparing pieces for welding with your grinder, pay attention to the sparks. As the carbon content increases, the sparks flare more. The more carbon the steel has, the more careful you should be during welding. High carbon content causes cracking when exposed to thermal stress.

Watch the sparks while grinding steel for welding.
Source: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DTiWMD36rn4

Tensile Strength

The second step is matching the tensile strength of the electrode to the base metal. Tensile strength is the maximum stress a material can withstand before breaking, often measured in thousands of pounds per square inch.

To check the electrode's tensile strength, refer to the first two digits of the AWS classification. For example, in E6010, the 60 means the electrode has a tensile strength of 60,000 psi, meaning it works well with steel of similar tensile strength. E7018 electrodes have a tensile strength of 70,000 psi, and so on.

Matching the tensile strength is crucial in avoiding cracking or other weld discontinuities. If the weld can withstand less stress than the base metal, it will crack. However, you shouldn't overmatch the strength. Overmatching the strength can lead to increased residual stresses in the weld, eventually causing failure.

Stress distribution in welds: under-matching causes cracks; over-matching raises residual stress.
Source: https://www.researchgate.net/

Welding Current

Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) is one of the few processes that can work with DCEP (DC+), DCEN (DC-), and AC current. However, most of the Stick welding is carried out at DC current and reverse polarity (DCEP), as it provides better penetration. DCEN provides limited penetration, and it works better with thin metals. Welders turn to AC to deal with an arc blow that occurs with DC welding.

Although Stick welding works with various current options, some electrodes do not. Keep that in mind when choosing the electrode for your applications. To check the current compatibility, look at the fourth digit on the AWS classification (e.g., E6013). Here is what the numbers represent:

• 0 - DCEP

• 1 - AC or DCEP

• 2 - AC or DCEN

• 3 - AC, DCEP, DCEN

• 4 - AC, DCEP, DCEN

• 8 - AC or DCEP

A Chart of Welding Currents and Compatible Electrodes
Source: https://www.thefabricator.com/

For example, the E6010 electrode delivers deep penetration and produces a highly tight arc. Welders often use it to weld a root pass, producing full penetration and a strong foundation for subsequent weld passes. However, if you check the list above, the fourth digit, 0, means it is a DCEP-only electrode.

Occasionally, stick welders encounter an arc blow. If present, the arc wanders and doesn't follow the shortest path between the electrode and the joint. To deal with it, welders switch to AC, but E6010 is not compatible. Therefore, you need an alternative, such as E6011, which works with AC or DCEP. So, before picking an electrode, make sure it is compatible with the current you will use in your further applications.

Arc Blow in Stick Welding
Photo by @sewingwithfirewelding (IG)

Base Metal Thickness

Stick welding is famous for its good performance on thick pieces. However, to achieve desirable and strong welding results, you will need the right electrode.

The thicker the base metal, the wider the joint. That means you'll need to deposit more filler metal, but you'll need to be careful when doing so. 

Electrodes with maximum ductility and low hydrogen are perfect for these applications. AWS electrodes that end with 15, 16, or 18 deliver excellent low–hydrogen properties and good toughness for thick metal welding applications. Also, you should consider using larger electrodes, as they work better with higher amps (more heat) and can deposit much more metal in a single pass.

Conversely, when welding thin metals, you will need electrodes with a soft arc and a lower amperage rating, such as E6013. The soft arc combined with shallow penetration won't cause burn-through or distortion on thin pieces, so you'll need to adjust your choice. Smaller-diameter electrodes work better with lower amps, and they won't be too aggressive on thinner pieces.

E6013 Overhead Stick Welding
Source: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xW6tYoqcSJI

However, remember that Stick welding is not the perfect method for thin sheet metals, regardless of the electrode. You can control the heat and minimize exposure, but it doesn't guarantee success.

Welding Position

Four basic Stick welding positions are flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead. Welding in a flat or horizontal position is considered the most straightforward. We recommend working in a flat position whenever you can at home and for your hobby projects. Vertical and overhead welding is challenging and often reserved for the most experienced welders.

Basic Welding Positions
Source: https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/11/1211

Besides skill requirements, you should make sure the electrode you are choosing is compatible with the welding position of your application. To check the welding position compatibility, refer to the third digit of the AWS electrode classification (e.g., E7018).

• 1 - all position electrodes (flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead)

• 2- flat and horizontal only

If you are mostly doing flat welding, you shouldn't care too much. You should choose the electrode that fits your applications and preferences. However, be careful when welding vertically or overhead. Ensure your electrode can work with the given conditions.

Overhead Stick Welding with E7018
Source: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/foHlOAd-wzQ

Most welders recommend E7018 electrodes for overhead and vertical welding. These are low-hydrogen, iron powder electrodes that improve the deposition rate and fill the joint faster, which is crucial when dealing with gravity. E6010 is a suitable alternative due to its quick-starting, steady, and deep-penetrating arc. Both will make battling the gravity that forces the weld out of the joint much easier.

However, make sure your inverter welder can run the notorious E6010s. If not, consider using the YesWelder ARC205DS Pro, which features adjustable arc force and automatic compensation for voltage fluctuation. These additions will help you deal with the challenges of maintaining a stable arc with an E6010 on an inverter welder.

ARC-205DS-PRO 110V/220V Stick & Lift TIG In One Stick Welder

Electrode Size

A good rule of thumb when selecting a welding rod is to choose one size smaller than the base metal. You can use the same diameter for thinner materials, but there is no valid reason to opt for larger-diameter rods.

For example, if the base metal is 1/8 inch thick, you should use a 3/32-inch rod. This approach is practical for metals up to 3/16 inch thick and is suitable for standard welds, such as a one-sided single-pass butt weld.

Stick welding rod sizes vary from 1/16 inch up to 1/4" and over. However, as an everyday welder, hobbyist, or beginner, you are likely to use 3/32", 1/8", and 5/32" welding rod sizes. If you have an electrode and don't know its size, measure the diameter of the piece you are clamping with the electrode holder.

The larger the core of the electrode is, the more amperage you'll need to keep it running. Amperage directly impacts the heat input. For example, 3/32" rods can handle 40-125 amps, while 5/32" rods work best with 105-250 amps. Therefore, choosing the largest electrode for the job is not recommended.

If you wish to learn more about it, check out our comprehensive article on Stick welding rod sizes.

Joint Design

Joint design and part fit-up can also affect your electrode choice. For a tight fit-up or non-beveled joint, use an electrode, such as an E6010 or E6011, that provides a digging arc to ensure sufficient penetration.

Meanwhile, a wide root opening requires an electrode, such as an E6012, that creates a concave weld face. This electrode is suitable for bridging gaps and making groove welds.

Flat and horizontal butt welds are one of the most common welding joint configurations. For home applications, you can use the recommended amperage range and electrode. Meanwhile, a fillet joint will need around 10% more welding rod amperage than a butt joint. Conversely, an outside corner joint requires 15% less power than a butt joint.

Stick Welding a Fillet Joint
Photo by @_moondune_ (TikTok)

Environmental Conditions

Weld preparation is half the job, and, among others, it includes cleaning the surface before welding. Removing rust, dirt, oil, grease, or mill scale before welding will yield much cleaner weld results and reduce the time spent on post-weld cleaning.

However, many welders like SMAW since it can burn through light surface contamination. If you need to finish the job quickly, you can burn through some surface contamination, such as paint, dirt, grease, or rust. But, you'll pay the price in somewhat more spatter and fumes.

If you cannot or don't have the time to clean the metal and remove contaminants before welding, you'll need an electrode with a deep penetrating arc that can cut through contaminants. An E6010s or E6011s is a perfect choice that will help you burn through light contamination. Nonetheless, we always recommend cleaning the pieces before welding, whenever applicable.

Stick Welding on Rusty Metal with E6010 Electrodes
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHlbryhf80k&t=1s

Also, don't forget about service conditions. Factors such as low temperature, high temperature, and shock loading can affect the welding results. So, make sure to match the electrode to service conditions, base metal composition, ductility, and impact resistance.

Our Top Stick Electrode Picks

As noted, there are dozens of Stick electrodes on the market. But you are likely to use only a few for your everyday home applications. Here are our top recommendations, with a brief overview chart.

Final Thoughts

If you review the AWS classification of Stick electrodes, you will see that there are over a hundred different types for different applications. Add different fluxes, sizes, and welding performances, and you have yourself a thinking nightmare.

However, choosing the right stick electrode for your applications shouldn't be too big a challenge. All you have to do is consider the crucial factors, such as metal type and thickness, joint configuration, current and polarity, and welding conditions. Once you understand the basics, you should be able to pick the best electrodes for your applications.